Why You Should Never Use Butter When Making Popovers

For many bakers, butter is a non-negotiable ingredient, the backbone of rich cakes and flaky pastries. But when it comes to popovers, butter is more of a burden than a benefit. Unlike biscuits or croissants, where butter’s water content helps create steam and layers, popovers rely on a very different mechanism for their signature puff. Introducing butter to the equation disrupts that delicate balance, weighing down the batter and preventing it from reaching its full, airy potential.

Too Rich, Too Dense, Too Wrong

One of the main reasons butter fails in a popover recipe is its high fat content. Popovers don’t rely on butter for structure the way pie crusts or cookies do. Instead, they need a batter with just the right consistency—thin enough to allow steam to create air pockets but stable enough to hold their tall, dramatic rise. Butter introduces too much heaviness, leaving you with something more like a dense Yorkshire pudding rather than a crisp, hollow popover. And let’s be honest—if you wanted Yorkshire pudding, you’d just make that instead.

Steam is the Star, Not Fat

Popovers rise because of steam, not fat. A well-balanced batter—typically made with eggs, flour, milk, and a touch of salt—depends on a hot oven and the right amount of moisture to create the dramatic lift. Butter’s high fat content interferes with this process, slowing down steam production and causing the popovers to collapse before they can fully expand. Instead of that coveted crisp exterior and hollow interior, you’ll end up with squat, doughy disappointments.

The Right Fat for the Job

If butter is a popover’s downfall, what should you use instead? The answer is simple: neutral oils or melted shortening. A small amount of vegetable oil or canola oil gives popovers the light texture they need without adding unnecessary weight. These fats coat the pan evenly, ensuring the batter doesn’t stick, while allowing the steam to do its job without interference. Many seasoned bakers swear by a greased, well-preheated muffin or popover tin for that perfect lift.

Let Butter Shine Somewhere Else

Here’s the good news: butter isn’t entirely banned from the popover experience—it just shouldn’t be in the batter. Instead, save it for after baking, slathering a warm popover with a pat of high-quality butter when it’s fresh out of the oven. This way, you get all the delicious flavor of butter without sacrificing the structure of your popover. And if you’re feeling indulgent, a drizzle of honey or a sprinkle of flaky sea salt never hurt either.