Widespread in Asia Minor, Greece and the Middle East, this hot drink made from milk, wild orchid flour and cinnamon is very popular in winter. Let's see how it is prepared and why it is considered illegal in the U.S.
If you have been to Istanbul you will have enjoyed the local gastronomic specialties, including tasting Turkish coffee, and noticed how people have a real passion for coffee shops. Among the most particular hot drinks to try and that you will hardly find here (we will explain why later) there is the salep, a thick and slightly frothy milk on the surface made with wild orchid flour (called salep, from which the drink takes its name), sugar and cinnamon. The flavor is sweet, comparable to that of vanilla, but much less accentuated, with spicy notes: it is a must have of the winter season, as it is delicious and invigorating like a chocolate. Let's go and discover it.
When we talk about salep (also sahlep or sahlab) we are mainly referring to the drink that is found throughout Asia Minor, Greece and the Middle East, known since the time of the Ottoman Empire, although it is said that the ancient Romans already consumed it. The term actually derives from the main ingredient with which it is made, namely the flour of various species of wild orchids: the tuber is taken, grated and dried, thus obtaining a fine powder with a thickening power, similar to that of potato starch.
It is not only used for this recipe, but also in puddings and in the famous Turkish ice cream dondurma, giving it an unusual stringy consistency. The drink is enjoyed both in the on-the-go version, purchased from street kiosks or bars, and at home. At home, it is prepared by first mixing the sugar with the flour and then pouring everything into a saucepan with the milk: it is mixed and placed on the stove, simmering gently for about 10-15 minutes, the time for the liquid to thicken. Once ready, it is poured into a cup and traditionally completed with a sprinkling of cinnamon.
In the past, salep was recognized for its powerful aphrodisiac properties given by orchid flour. In ancient times, in fact, plants were assigned therapeutic virtues based on their shape and the ovoid shape of the bulbs recalled the testicles: orchis in Greek means testicle, and the Arabic word sahlep means "fox testicle". It was therefore highly sought after to increase amorous performance, as an energizer and tonic. To a lesser extent, it was used as a natural medicine to combat diarrheal disorders. Nowadays, salep is consumed mainly because it is tasty and is an ideal treat when temperatures drop.
Salep is nearly impossible to find in the U.S. because it is made from the tubers of wild orchids, many of which are protected under international conservation laws. The harvesting of these orchids, primarily from Turkey and parts of the Middle East, has led to a severe decline in their populations. The U.S. enforces strict regulations under the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), which prohibits or severely restricts the import and sale of endangered plant species, including the orchids used for salep. Since these orchids cannot be commercially cultivated at scale, and their collection from the wild is unsustainable, authentic salep is essentially banned from legal trade in the U.S.
Salep is so loved and popular in Turkey (but not only) that it can also be enjoyed as a cappuccino. In coffee shops, in fact, it is prepared like the classic drink by putting the milk in the jug, adding the flour and then whipping it until it becomes frothy, always decorating with cinnamon and then adding sugar to taste. Another variant is that of soluble salep, sold in sachets exactly like coffee. Inside the portion, the flour and sugar are already mixed into a powder that is put in the cup in which to add the hot milk: convenient and quick, even if the flavor can be sweeter.
The milk in this drink is a fundamental element to ensure creaminess, preferring whole cow's milk, which is fattier and more nutritious. However, lactose-free versions are also common, where water is used in the same way, lighter and more fluid. If you don't like cinnamon, there are other toppings: among the most popular are ginger, rose water and chopped pistachios. The classic salep is usually sipped on its own, as it is substantial, but accompanying it with a square of dark chocolate seems to be a good idea.