What is Baijiu: The World’s Best-Selling Alcohol That No One Knows About

With 10 billion liters a year, baijiu is the best-selling alcoholic beverage in the world and yet no one knows about it. This is because it is the favorite drink of the Chinese and few bottles cross the borders of China. In its homeland, it is a guest at business dinners, it is given as a gift on special occasions and is offered at diplomatic meetings. Richard Nixon‘s dinner in Beijing, during his historic visit in 1972 as President of the United States, was iconic, where baijiu was served at the table. Nixon was one of the first Westerners in history to taste this product. But what does it taste like? The flavor of baijiu is known for being particularly intense, and the perception of flavor varies greatly depending on the variety. In general, it is a full-bodied distillate, with notes that range from sweet to pungent, passing through fruity and sometimes smoky hints. The aromatic richness is one of the reasons why baijiu can be "difficult" at first taste, but for those who appreciate complex distillates, this characteristic also represents its main attraction. Let's see together all the secrets of this incredible drink and almost unknown in the West, which could conquer the market in the immediate future.

The History of Baijiu

For thousands of years, alcohol has been intertwined with Chinese culture, becoming a symbol of society. From its origins among the ancient farmers of the Central Plain to the modern era of the People's Republic of China, alcohol has influenced every aspect of life: from religion to art, from philosophy to politics. Among the various Chinese spirits, baijiu stands out as the most iconic spirit, with a history that is intimately linked to that of China itself.

China's relationship with alcohol began about 9,000 years ago, in Jiahu, Henan province. Here, archaeologists have discovered traces of a fermented drink made from rice, honey, grapes, and hawthorn berries, believed to be the world's oldest known alcoholic beverage. For the ancients, alcohol was not just an earthly pleasure, but a window into the spiritual realm, a tool for communicating with gods and ancestors.

As Chinese civilization developed, alcohol became a crucial part of society. Around 5000 BC, jiu, a fermented grain drink made with natural yeast, was born. During that period, jiu not only served to connect the earthly world with the spiritual world, but also to cement human relationships. Ancient Chinese rulers retained court artisans to create beverages used in ceremonies and political negotiations.

During the Han, Tang, and Song dynasties, China reached a period of great cultural prosperity. In this era, the star of the imperial tables was huangjiu, a sweet grain-based alcoholic beverage. Beloved by poets and artists, huangjiu was often celebrated in verse and artwork. Iconic was the poet Li Bai, who transformed drinking into an act of poetic communion with the moon and the universe, embodying the ideal of enlightenment through intoxication. The idea that intoxication can lead to a greater understanding of oneself and the universe is deeply rooted in Taoist thought. For Li Bai, alcohol was not just a drink, but a means to free the mind from everyday worries and to come into contact with a deeper reality. Through intoxication, the poet connected with nature, with the moon, with the universe itself. In particular, the satellite was often associated with the act of drinking, a recurring theme in his works, because it was a symbol of purity and immortality. The moon became a drinking companion for the poet, a silent interlocutor with whom he could share his thoughts and emotions. The moon reflected in the water was a mirror of the poet's soul, a place to get lost and find himself again. Drinking alcohol under the moonlight, Li Bai felt like an integral part of the universe. The intoxication freed him from the limits of his body and mind, allowing him to experience a feeling of unity with everything around him. Nature, with its cycles and rhythms, became a source of inspiration and comfort. Yes, Li Bai had problems with alcohol, we know that's what you're thinking, but he is also one of the most important poets in the history of China so respect for Li.

The 13th century marked a turning point with the arrival of distillation in China. The process may have been introduced by Mongol conquerors, who learned it from Middle Eastern chemists during their campaigns. Some scholars instead speculate that distillation may have been a native Chinese invention, spread via ancient trade routes. Whatever its origins, this revolutionary method paved the way for the production of stronger, more concentrated spirits. During the Ming Dynasty, Chinese craftsmen perfected the art of distillation, extracting the essence of huangjiu to create a more potent drink: shaojiu or “burnt wine.” This spirit, which we know today as baijiu, quickly became popular due to its intensity and versatility. Thousands of years of traditions were integrated and refined, resulting in a spirit that embodied the Chinese identity.

As the Chinese Empire expanded, baijiu adapted to regional tastes, resulting in a variety of distinctive styles. While the aristocratic elite continued to favor huangjiu, baijiu became the drink of choice for the people due to its strength and accessibility. Each region developed its own unique version, using local grains and techniques, laying the foundation for modern baijiu styles.

With the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, baijiu was elevated to a national symbol. The government modernized production, building regional distilleries and standardizing distillation techniques. Traditional recipes, once passed down orally, were documented and codified. This process not only increased the quality of baijiu, but cemented its place as China's signature drink.

In recent decades, baijiu has begun to cross national borders, becoming an ambassador of Chinese culture to the world. Distilleries are now exporting their products abroad, targeting both the Chinese diaspora and a curious international audience. Baijiu is finding its way into cocktail bars, where mixologists are combining it with other ingredients to create innovative drinks, alongside tequila, gin and brandy. This journey is probably not over yet because the product is still too niche, but we'll see what happens in the future.

What Does Baijiu Taste Like?

Baijiu has a wide range of aromas and flavors, depending on the raw material used, the production process and the region of origin. In general, baijiu has an intense and complex aroma, with notes of cereals, dried fruit, flowers, spices and sometimes even hints of smoke. The taste can be dry, sweet, fruity or spicy, with a persistent finish. The alcohol content of baijiu varies greatly, from a minimum of 35% to a maximum of 60% vol.

The basis of baijiu lies in the choice of raw materials. Sorghum, the cereal par excellence, is the undisputed protagonist, but rice, wheat and soy contribute to creating a wide range of aromatic nuances. To these is added qu, a fermentative agent composed of fungi and bacteria, which transforms starches into sugars and gives the must its first characteristic notes. The flavor is greatly affected by the duration of the process, the temperature and the type of containers that profoundly influence the development of microorganisms and the production of aromatic compounds. Longer fermentations and higher temperatures favor the formation of complex molecules, responsible for more intense and mature aromas. The stills for distillation are classic but the number of distillations influences the alcohol content and the aromatic profile of the distillate.

Some products are then aged for longer in terracotta or wooden containers that, in contact with the distillate, slowly release aromatic molecules that enrich the bouquet and soften the alcoholic sensations. There are also some baijiu that have "separate" tastes such as the sauce aroma, with its intense notes of soy sauce, toasted and umami, is the most famous type; or the strong aroma, more fruity and intense; or even the light aroma, more delicate and floral, offering different taste experiences.

How is Baijiu Made: The Processing of the Chinese Distillate

The production of baijiu is a complex artisanal process, which includes specific ingredients and techniques:

• Main raw materials: Baijiu is generally made from grains such as sorghum, wheat, rice, corn, and millet. Each type of grain can impart a different flavor profile to the finished product.
• Fermentation in clay vats: Baijiu fermentation takes place in large clay or sometimes mud vats, which provide temperature and humidity regulation to facilitate the fermentation process. Fermentation can last anywhere from three months to five years, depending on the type of baijiu and the desired quality.
• Using qu: “qu” is a mixture of herbs and grains that contains enzymes and natural yeasts essential for fermentation. The qu, thanks to microorganisms, transforms the starch into sugars, which are then fermented, creating alcohol and the typical aromatic profile of baijiu.
• Steam distillation: Once fermented, the compound is distilled using a steam process that helps maintain the aromatic character of the product. This method is traditional and allows for an intense and complex distillate.
• Maturation: Baijiu is typically aged to develop its flavors. The aging time and method varies greatly depending on the variety and producer, but maturation techniques include ceramic or earthenware vessels, which add complexity to the final product.

All of this brings us to baijiu, but that would be too easy. There are in fact four main varieties (and countless minor varieties), each with its own aromatic profile. The most famous is Moutai, with hints of soy sauce, peanuts and spices. Guilin is the one with the most room for expansion because it is rice-based, has a fresher and sweeter taste than the other varieties, making it more suitable for cocktails and mixed preparations. Luzhou is the most intense and fruity variety, has a sweeter taste and is the most sold version in China. Finally there is Fenjiu, a lighter and more delicate version, usually used to let tourists taste baijiu without scaring them too much.

How to Serve and Taste Baijiu

Baijiu is traditionally served neat, in small glasses similar to shot glasses or sake glasses, and consumed at room temperature. During social occasions, baijiu is often served to celebrate moments of celebration or to accompany frequent toasts. In China, baijiu is the quintessential social drink, drunk in groups as a sign of respect and friendship. Tastings of baijiu can reveal complex and layered flavors, so it is advisable to drink slowly (and responsibly) to appreciate all the nuances.